Sunday we began our adventure to Baños, a small resort town at the base of an active Volcano, where most Ecuadorians and Estranjeros (foreigners) go to vacation. Our adventure began with a most interesting Taxi ride from our hotel. We were told by the Taxi driver that a new bus terminal (and by new, I mean 8 days new!) was located in the southern part of the city. It was the Taxista´s first time driving to the terminal, yet he reassured us that he knew right where he was going.
The sequence of events that followed were quite hilarious, and had J and I cracking up in the back seat, while Tedi was squished in the front. We drove for around 20 minutes, when the Taxista admitted that he had no idea where the terminal was. He rolled down Tedi´s window, and yelled out at the driver next to us (while he was driving) for directions to the la terminal nueva. Ämigo, donde esta la terminal neuva?¨ This happened about five different times, as we drove around a round-about more times than I can count on one hand. Finally, a very nice Ecuadorian in a pick-up truck motioned for our Taxista to follow him. Apparently this is how getting directions works in Ecuador, first you yell out the window, drive helplessly around in circles for the next 10 minutes until some kind old soul decides to take pitty on you and have you follow them in your car… needless to say, a map here is a bit out of the question.
We followed the dude in the pick-up for as long as he wanted us to and then he yelled, ¨just go recto (straight).¨ Of course straight ahead, in about 30 feet really meant coming to a fork in the road and led our confused Taxista wondering and cursing in Spanish which way was the correct way to go. This followed with numerous yellings out the window to random people, who all replied, ¨vas recto, amigo!¨ So recto we went, and came to constrution, which lead us to a detoir, where we got even more lost…
After about 40 minutes of driving and yelling for directions to la terminal nueva, we finally arrived at a beautifully modern building, of which reminded me of the Yurba Buena center in SF. The terminal was fairly easy to navigate, we found the boletos (ticket vendors), looked for the lady who was yelling, ¨Baños express¨ out her little kiosk window (was it really that transparent that we were going to Baños??) and bought three tickets to Baños (each costing only $3.50). We loaded the bus and realized that we, along with one family of three and a gringo dude, were the only ones on this brand new bus. This was a bit contrary to the overnight bus experience to Coca in el Oriente.
In the daylight, and much more awake, I quickly learned how the non-efficient, yet efficient bus system works. The bus has two opperators, one who is the driver, and the other who leans out the door and yells the destination of the bus collecting passengers and fairs. We stopped several times outside of Quito for over twenty vendors, who tried to sell us papitas (chips), aqua, frutas, jugos frescas, chicklettas (gum), and the list went on and on. We even had a few vendors who tried to sell us pirated DVDs… intriging yet no sale. J and I bought some papitas for the 4 hour trip, since we hadn´t really eaten lunch, and Tedi bought himself a nice bottle of aqua.
We drove and drove, luckily it was a clar day and we were able to see almost every side of Cotopaxi, since we had to drive around it to go South to Ambato, and then a bit East to Baños.
The drive in to Baños is on a dirt road for about an hour and is similar to driving along highway 1, where the road turns, dips, and every single time it turns, I could have sworn we would drive right off the cliff. The view of the volcano was incredible! J immediatly pointed out that it reminded him of Kauai, and I couldn´t have agreed more. It was a very moist, green valley filled with waterfalls, and the most interesting town, where EVERY business takes credit card! What a novelty!
We quickly found our Villa Santa Clara, which was far from anything similar to a Villa (this was also reflected in the price at $7 cada persona), and went out to find lunch, as we were famished at this point.
We were told that shopping in Baños was ¨spectacular!¨yet, it really consisted of over 50 little stores and vendors that sell the exact same thing for slightly similar prices- all items that were probably mostly made in China (at least it was cheap).
Upon leaving our Hostal for dinner, we asked the hotel currator if the town was safe at night, since we explained that we had just come from Quito. He explained with great enthusiasm and animation, that unlike Quito (of which he held a gun-shaped finger up to his own neck to act-out how dangerous the loco citizens of Quito are) Baños is extremely safe! ¨Stay up as late as you want, descansar (rest and relax), and walk home at whatever time of night, and you will be safe,¨ he said. It´s amazing what a few words of security can do to calm the mind. I could finally relax, after a strenuous day and a half in Quito. Baños no tiene la gente loco! Thank God!
We passed out early and found our way the next morning around 6am to the public baths (filled with healing minerals from the heat of the volcano). It was quite an experience getting into the 118 degree F hot water in the therapeutic pool. Against the crips morning air, and overlooking the georgous town and landscape, we soaked in the baths with the rest of the local Ecuadorians. The public pools have three piscinas. A cold pool, luke warm pool (which would be considered hot in US standards), and a super duper hot bath.
Afterwards, we caught a taxi up to the Adventure Spa Luna Runtun, where we planned on relaxing for the rest of the day 6km above Baños, overlooking the town and staying in a private villa. It was rainy and cold when we arrived, we quickly had lunch (which turned into a 2 hour affair) and J and I planned on hiking down the volcano to the town to rent bikes or do some form of activity while Tedi washed more of his underwear.
The hike was intersting, as half of it was on a road filled with blind curves and the rest was on a drainage trail, which was a bit tricky to navigate in the slippery mud. The view however, was incredible and we could really feel the difference in altitude as we hiked down. We got to the town and found an ATV rental for relatively cheap, we attempted to rent it but soon realized that we would need a passport, and of course, both our passports were at the top of the volcano at Luna Runtun. The eager salesman suggested that we hale a cab and ¨pay $2 and come right back with our passports!¨ Little did he know that each Taxi ride costs around $5 one way!
The rest of our afternoon included shopping and searching for unique items that were not made in China. We were somewhat successful and at the end of a long afternoon, took a Taxi back up to Luna.
That evening we relaxed and enjoyed a cheap alcoholic shot of sugarcane liquor served with hot fruit tea as a chaser in the hot baths overlooking the town. I kept looking up, waiting to see the top of the active volcano, but no such luck, as the top was covered in clouds and fog.
The following day consisted of a very long breakfast (meals took forever at Luna) and talking Tedi into joining us for an ATV ride in the mud for 3 hours. We convinced him, put on our rain gear, and headed down the mountain after waiting for a Taxi for about 40 minutes (we were again, experiencing Ecuadorian time at its best). We found a reliable looking place to rent 4-wheelers from, and we decided, since we were on a budget to rent 2 and share. The man who rented them to us didn´t even bother to ask us if we knew how to drive! But, he was kind enough to guide us through town on his moped to the road that lead to the south of town, where we would be able to drive on (with the rest of the truck, cars, and buses) to see many different waterfalls.
Riding in a 4-wheeler in the mud and on Ecuadorian roads is very very interesting, and quite the adventure. Since they only go around 30mph, we had to make sure to stay far over to the right to let sinky buses pass. Needless to say, the locals must put up with these a lot, since no one seemed to mind or honk at us as we made our way out of Baños towards the waterfalls. Most of the route consisted of alternative roades just for us and bikes whenever we got to a tunnel, however, there was one point, where J and I had to drive through a one-way tunnel without lights! Needless to say, it was even more interesting on the way back because the tunnel curved, and there were a few seconds when we couldn´t even see the light at the end of the tunnel (normally this would be a good thing, but without headlights, it was extremely scary). J kept saying, ¨you´re too close to the wall, turn to the left!¨
Off the main roads, the route was muddy, and we were splashed quite a bit because we were missing a fender. Note to self, the next I rent a 4-wheeler in the rain, make sure there is a fender!
We made it all the way to a waterfall hiking spot about 1.5 hours out called the something of the Diablo. We hiked down to a river, and then paid the dollar to enter to the balconies of the devil. This consisted of several balconies that went down to the base of the waterfall. This prompted Tedi to put on his bright yellow pancho (of which he slightly resembled Big Bird), and the three of us prepared to get soaked!
On the hike back, we crossed a rope bridge, and then encountered more Americans that were also staying at Luna. Ecuador is such a small place!
The drive back was muddy and cold, by the end we were covered in mud and our pants were soaked through, but we had a blast on our 4-wheel drive in Baños. I guess the next trip we´ll try a more extreme sport, like pendulum swinging from a bridge, or repelling from a waterfall.
The bus back to Quito was pretty eventless, minus the blasting tecno music the entire way (which made it impossible to sleep even though I took Dramamine!) Upon entering Quito, we grabbed a Taxi back to the airport, where we would take a tiny prop plane to Manta, a small city in the central coast. I will leave that story for another time, when I don´t have to go…
Until the next update, which will probably be when I´m back in the States…
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